Throwing

Generally, there are two main forming methods in ceramics: throwing and handbuilding. 

Handbuilding involves cutting and rolling out slabs, then piecing designs together by pinching and molding the clay. Remember making a pinch-pot or coiled pot in an art class? That was handbuilding!

Throwing is the process of making a vessel on the wheel. The wheel allows me to create symmetrical, round, consistent pieces.

We’re on the wheel… I’ll throw the ball of clay in the middle of a clean, dry bat. Next, I’ll get my hands wet and apply pressure to the clay so it forms a perfectly centered cone-shape with a flat top. I’ll create a well or opening in the center of the cone, open it up, and “pull” the walls up - thinning the clay and creating a taller form. I’ll continue shaping it, clean up the top rim, and then I’ll remove excess water from the piece. Finally, it gets cut off the bat and set aside to dry for 1-2 days.

Trimming

Trimming is the process where I finish the shape of the piece, remove excess clay from the bottom, and stamp the bottom of the piece.

The clay has to be “leather hard” to trim it - just soft enough to be able to remove clay easily, and hard enough so the shape isn’t deformed.

After I trim the piece and smooth its surface, I’ll stamp my logo.

If I’m working with a mug, I’ll “pull” the handle from a larger ball of clay, score the mug, and apply slip (think watery clay that acts like glue), then attach the handle. I’ll shape the handle and smooth the connections, then set the piece aside to dry before firing.

Leather hard pottery takes at least 5 days to dry before firing. This time is absolutely essential because any remaining moisture will cause the piece to crack or explode in the kiln.

Bisque Fire

Did you know that all of my pottery gets fired twice? Most people don’t. It gets fired once before glazing (bisque fire) and once after glazing (glaze fire).

Think of a piece that’s been bisque fired like it’s half-baked. The bisque fire is a lower max temp than the glaze fire. It makes the clay more durable, almost stone-like, yet porous enough to absorb and later bond with glaze.

Bisque firing takes about 24 hours total: up to 12 hours to fire, then 12 hours to cool.

Sanding

After bisqueware is taken out of the kiln, I often sand the bottom. I’ll center the piece on the wheel again, then use a sanding pad with water to smooth the finish.

Glazing

Most of my glazes are commercially made, but I do create my own colors with specific combinations or layering styles.

Glaze is kind of like liquid glass; I can paint, dip, or pour it onto the pottery. Many of the glazes require several layers, so I’ll glaze it once, wait for that layer to dry completely, then glaze it again and again. 

Some product styles require me to apply wax resist first, others require masking tape. Regardless, I’ll apply wax, apply glaze, and then clean the bottom of each piece so the glaze doesn’t run and get stuck to a kiln shelf.

Glaze Fire

The final step is the glaze fire.

This is the hottest, final fire that bonds the glaze with the pottery and creates an even, glass-like finish. This firing takes about 24 hours as well; up to 12 hours to fire and 12 hours to cool.